Wine on Tap
An Illogical Argument Against Wine From the Tap.
Keg wine served through bar-top taps has never caught on in the U.S., and I think I know the reason: romance.
Wine is surrounded by traditions, some of them indefensible. Is cork inherently better as a stopper than synthetic corks or twist-off tops? Of course not – but we still prefer it. We’re creatures of habit. That’s why we like that sleek bottle in front of us, reflecting the candlelight as talk turns intimate and the hour gets late.
In Europe, the wine-tap system has been around for decades; I remember seeing them everywhere during trips there in the 1980s. On a visit years ago to a bar in southern France, the local Beaujolais was served to me directly from a big wooden keg sitting right on the bar.
But for some reason, wine taps have never been widely accepted here, despite attempts to make them trendy in the 1970s and ’80s. I’ve seen them in only a handful of Orange County (California) bars over the last 18 months or so.
But What About the Taste of Keg Wine?
Many in the industry claim that wine stored in kegs is better, on average, than the same product in a bottle. Corks can carry impurities which undermine the taste of a wine. So can oxidation, which happens when a wine bottle is opened and the unfinished portion is exposed to air. When a keg is tapped, the void space inside instantly becomes pressurized by an inert gas, which prevents oxygen from coming in contact with the wine.
There’s the nagging perception that wine from a keg is plonk. But respected wineries such as Au Bon Climat (4.3 star rating on Vivino for their Hildegard White Blend, $33) and Qupé (3.7 star rating on Vivino for their Santa Barbara Syrah, $25) are getting into the practice, so that argument doesn’t really hold.
Still, where is the romance? I know, I know, it’s not a logical argument. But to me, part of the pleasure of wine drinking involves observing its traditions and rituals – even the ones that make no sense.
Contributing Author: Paul Hodgins, Good Libations columnist, Orange County Register
On Twitter: @octheaterguy